Adding a Zipper to a Raglan Sleeve

I've been trying out some new software. Sometimes it is hard to explain things in text, and even pictures can be misleading. Let me know what you think about my answer to Cathy's question. I will also follow up with some pictures of this process.


Cathy writes from Australia:

My granddaughter has a rash shirt made out of lycra but the neck opening is too small for her. Is it possible to increase the opening by inserting a zipper in one of the raglan seams at the neck? My answer to her is this: (Make sure you scroll in the box to get to the end) Hi Cathy,  You have a great idea, there. Adding a zipper will surely give you some extra room in the neck. If there is a seam along the shoulder edge, you are all set. Just insert a zipper as you normally would when constructing a garment. Method 2: Sometimes the raglan sleeves only have an underarm seam. If that is the case, you will have to "create" some seam allowance. That should not be a problem, you will just have to give some extra attention to the area where the zipper ends.  Make a slit slightly smaller than the zipper length. At the area where the bottom end of the zipper goes, make a "v" shaped snip (If you've ever made a welt pocket, the cutting is the same). You will then fold back the "v" and fold under along the edges of the longer cut you made. The fabric that you folded under becomes your seam allowance. The zipper tape will show a bit in this case. You cannot use an invisible zipper. With the styles of today, you may even want to make this a design feature and use a zipper of a contrasting color! I have attached a rather rough drawing of Method 2. The Orange line is the cutting line, the green one is the existing neckline. In the second drawing, the blue area is the part where the zipper tape will show. Again, the green line is your garment neckline. The orange dotted lines are the folded edges formed by folding under the raw edges of the cuts you just made. Let us know how things turn out. You can always email a picture to me at maripat@learning-alterations.com Thanks for your comment, and please stay in touch. Maripat LearningAlterations.com

Hemming Chiffon

Today I got an email from Marlene. She is working on a prom dress and has this question:
Hi.
I want hem a prom dress that the outer layer is chiffon..very delicate..what is the best method and what size need..etc
I have hemmed then before but the hems are puckered..what is your methond for hemming the outer layer.


Hi Marlene,

http://whatimaltering-blog.learning-alterations.com/2010/05/shortening-formal-you-can-change.html

This blog post will show you the technique I use to do a narrow hem. It shows a dress made of satin, but I use the same method for all fabrics. It is not a true web page, but I think you can get the idea from the pictures and text.

As for working with chiffon, it is sometimes a challenge. The good thing here is that the stitching is quite close to the edge, so that minimizes the rippling. I use a smaller needle, maybe a size 9. It pierces the fabric with a smaller hole so  it doesn't create snags. The needle will go between the threads, instead of trying to break them.

Also, make the lining (inside) layer a good 1"-2" shorter than the chiffon. I pin the chiffon on the client at 1"-1¼" from the floor. I pin the lining 2"-2½" from the floor. Those dresses are usually so full that the wavy nature of the hem makes it a bit uneven. If you don't give yourself enough distance between the layers, then you get the problem described in this post and shown above.

Uneven Chiffon Hem

Good luck and let me know how it goes. I will post your question on the blog tonight and we'll see if you get any other insights.

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Shortening Vented Sleeves

Here's a nice note from Vicki

I was so happy to find your webpage today. I have a home business doing wedding and formal alterations, but my sister brought me an expensive jacket and wanted the sleeves shortened two inches. It has vented sleeves with buttons, and I had no confidence! Your web page explained perfectly how to do it, and the jacket looks great. Thank you! I'll be coming back when I have more questions. Yours is the best website I've found for help with common alterations.

Thanks so much for your kind words, Vicki. I love to hear success stories!!
I think you saw the instructions on the blog entry for shortening sleeves.
If anyone else is interested, the page Vicki is referring to is here.

 I actually have a full blown web page coming soon that has the steps in chart form with the yellow "table" format. I'm so glad you could get the whole idea from what I've written so far.

Stay tuned :) I'll keep your email address and let you know when it's posted.

Shortening a Wedding Gown

Here is a note from Carolyn, She writes:

Was asked to shorten an A line wedding gown with a chapel train.{removing the chapel train entirely-making it even in length with the rest of the gown).10, up to 15 inches will have to come off -and I am stumped how to shorten the full chapel train, and will it look stupid? I plan to hand sew the hem. Any help appreciated!

My answer to her needs to be in two parts because I need more information. We'll start here:

Hi Carolyn
I have several ideas but I need some more info, please.
Are you shortening the whole gown, that includes a train (all one piece gown, not a train that is detachable)?
Do you have a picture? You can email it to me at maripat@learning-alterations.com. If you don't have a picture, try going to Google and type in chapel train. Then go to the top left corner and click on images. You will get 815,000 results ... Yikes!! Try to pick one that looks similar to the gown you are working on. Roll your mouse over the picture and it will give you information. Copy that and send it to me; maybe a few, if you want). We'll get this thing going.
Remember, don't panic. It just a dress with a lot of extra fluffy stuff going on :) Oh, yeah, tell me how many layers, tulle, etc. it has.
If you are doing this for money make sure you charge enough. I usually start hems at $100.00 and this sounds like it should be more than that. You are also being paid for the risk you are taking by cutting this gown and working on it. There is no shame in being compensated for this.

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Someone Else is Getting into the Business

Below is a letter from Kris. Hopefully some of you are in the same place as she is.
If you are starting a business, or have one going already, drop me a line and let me know about it.

I LOVE your blog/webpage!!!! I am doing the same thing you are, a former teacher with a home sewing business, only I am on the beginning end of it, after sewing for my family for 20+ years. Business is starting to pick up, and I am thinking that I can actually make a go of this. I read your blog and don't feel like I am the only one. Thank you so much!

Hi Kris,
Thanks for the kind words in your email. You sound like you are well on your way to having a successful business. You have the confidence you need and the rest will come. Most of alterations is trial and error, trying to put things back the way you found them.
I wish I had had a digital camera back when I started. I really rely on it to remind me of how things looked before I started opening up seams and ripping things apart. Keep that in mind when you get something challenging.
As always, write to me if you are stuck on something. I'm sure I can help! And some of my readers have great ideas too.
Good luck and stay in touch.

Volunteering with a Seamstress

Nancy has written this nice note from Ireland. Is there anyone out there who can help her out with an answer?



where can I do a course in altrations in Meath or louth Ireland or can one work voluntary with an altrations person to get experence. thank you.

Nancy, I don't know of any classes. Hopefully someone who reads this blog will be able to help.
I am thinking about offering online alteration classes in the future. I need to see how much interest there is. If anyone wants to know more, could you drop me a line on the Contact Me page, or leave a comment below?

As for working on a volunteer basis, I'm sure most seamstresses/tailors would love the idea. You may get stuck doing some mundane tasks, like ripping out seams or something, but you can watch carefully and learn a lot. Eventually you will gain confidence and you can practice what you are learning on used clothing or old stuff from your closets.
Let us know if you are able to get this going. I'd love to hear about what you're learning!
Thanks so much.
Maripat

Anyone interested in pieces of clothing from the 40s and 50s?

Hi Everyone.
I got this nice note from Tina, reprinted below. Go to the Contact Me button and leave me a note if you are interested.

Hi, I was just wondering if you or someone you know would be interested in some pieces from my cousins grandmother they are gorgeous but need some TLC or could be reworked into something fabulous.I can just not bring myself to throw them out.They are dresses from I think the 40's and 50's.Thank you for any ideas.
You Rock,
Tina


Hi Tina
Thanks for contacting me. I don't think I have any use for them, but someone might. I'll reprint your note on my blog and see what response I get. I will not give out your email address, but will wait to see if someone contacts me.
Thanks for your kind words, too :)